- Grow. Grow food. Garden. Raise Animals and Fish for Meat.
- Cook. Prepare real, whole foods (in the form God created them), from scratch, using traditional methods.
- Clean. Life and cooking from scratch are messy. Accept responsibility. Clean up using as few toxic words and chemicals as possible.
- Love. Love the Lord and his creation. Love life; be content; be gracious.
- Learn. Learn about God, self, and nature. Teach others. Expand horizons. Admit mistakes and make changes.
- Repeat. Repeat 1-5. Thankfully, today is short and tomorrow’s a new day.
Tuesday, January 28, 2014
Our Approach to Everyday Living
Thursday, January 23, 2014
Free Composting Workshop
Saturday, February 1, 2014
10:00 AM
10:00 AM
In our 2-hour, interactive workshops you will learn the basics of
backyard composting and vermicomposting (composting with worms). Using
trial-tested advice and interactive demonstrations, our expert educators
will teach you all you need to know to get started with a bin that fits
your needs and lifestyle. Held throughout the County, there is sure to
be a workshop near you! We invite you to join us to learn more about
composting and how it can benefit your garden, home, and community.
Compost
bins will be sold at the end of the workshop with subsidized prices for
Unincorporated County residents so don't forget to bring cash or a
check.To register for this workshop, please call the Solana Center at (760) 436-7986 ext. 222, or visit http://www.solanacenter.org/forms/water-conservation-garden-composting-workshop-feb-1
Contact us: (760) 436-7986
Lawn to Garden
Do you have a sunny patch of lawn you could transform into a garden spot? The easiest way to convert a lawn into a garden does not employ even as much as a single shovel. Sheet mulching—a simple technique that involves layering organic materials right over the turf—kills the grass and leaves develops a garden bed with rich soil. A considerable amount of organic debris goes into the bed construction, so that stockpile of autumn leaves and yard trimmings, composted manure, and garden waste will come in handy. If you don't have said stockpile, you can go to the garden center and buy compost in bags.
Spread a 2-inch layer of compost or composted manure over the bed. This helps encourage microbial activity in the soil and speeds decomposition. Moisten the compost well.
Cover the compost with overlapping pieces of cardboard to smother the underlying vegetation and prevent light from reaching any weed seeds. Soak the cardboard with water.
Spread a 2-inch layer of compost over the cardboard and top it with up to 18 inches of mixed organic material (grass clippings, leaves, straw, seaweed, garden debris, farmyard manure, or more compost).
Include vegetable and fruit scraps and coffee grounds from the kitchen in the layers of organic matter.You can add kitchen scraps over the next few weeks by burying them in the bed. Alternate locations within the bed (don't bury scraps in the same place twice) to provide good coverage of nutrients, and to hasten decomposition.
For vegetable beds, top with a couple of inches of straw if you have it or about 6 inches of grass clippings. For ornamental beds, top with 4 inches of wood chips. In arid climates, water the bed as needed to keep the materials moist but not soaking wet. Soil microbes and earthworms will work to decompose the organic materials, including the cardboard and sod. The kitchen scraps, compost, and moisture will attract them, or you can add them to your bed. (Get over to the sporting goods store and get some red wigglers, go fishing, bring back the left over worms to add to your garden bed!)
Mark off the area of lawn where your garden bed will be. Scalp the grass within the outline with a lawn mower. Add your 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 frame(s) if you use them. A four foot by eight foot framed raised bed will grow a lot of veggies!
Spread a 2-inch layer of compost or composted manure over the bed. This helps encourage microbial activity in the soil and speeds decomposition. Moisten the compost well.
Cover the compost with overlapping pieces of cardboard to smother the underlying vegetation and prevent light from reaching any weed seeds. Soak the cardboard with water.
Spread a 2-inch layer of compost over the cardboard and top it with up to 18 inches of mixed organic material (grass clippings, leaves, straw, seaweed, garden debris, farmyard manure, or more compost).
For vegetable beds, top with a couple of inches of straw if you have it or about 6 inches of grass clippings. For ornamental beds, top with 4 inches of wood chips. In arid climates, water the bed as needed to keep the materials moist but not soaking wet. Soil microbes and earthworms will work to decompose the organic materials, including the cardboard and sod. The kitchen scraps, compost, and moisture will attract them, or you can add them to your bed. (Get over to the sporting goods store and get some red wigglers, go fishing, bring back the left over worms to add to your garden bed!)
By the time temperatures allow planting out (the frost-free date, give or take a week or two), your bed should be ready.
Time to Start Seeds Indoors
It’s time to plan our Spring garden. For some gardeners, planning is
about all that can be done until the weather warms up.

Our favorite book on starting plants from seed is The New Seed Starter's Handbook
by
Nancy Bubel. It's main sections include: Starting Seeds Indoors, Moving
Plants Outdoors, Special Techniques and Situations, Saving Seeds and
Making Further Plans, and an Encyclopedia of Plants to Grow from Seed
(the info you need to grow each variety of garden plant).
The
first decision to make in garden planning is what to grow. All plants
are easy to grow if you know how. Our advice is that you grow only what
you plan to eat. If you don't eat beets, don't grow them--at least at
first (beets are very good for you, by the way). Start with a few things
that you consistently buy at the produce market. Tomatoes are the most
popular home-grown vegetable, but if you don't eat tomatoes don't grow
them. (A tomato is actually a fruit, but defined by the government for
tax purposes as a vegetable; see Nix v. Hedden)
For us, the last frost is expected in mid March or early April. My grandfather, whose real-sized farm was only a few miles from our mini-farm, used to plant corn every two weeks or so starting in mid to late March so that he would be sure to have corn to harvest for celebrations on the 4th of July and on thru the summer. He planted Golden Bantam (as do we) which is ready to harvest about 80 days after planting.
For us, the last frost is expected in mid March or early April. My grandfather, whose real-sized farm was only a few miles from our mini-farm, used to plant corn every two weeks or so starting in mid to late March so that he would be sure to have corn to harvest for celebrations on the 4th of July and on thru the summer. He planted Golden Bantam (as do we) which is ready to harvest about 80 days after planting.
Knowing
how long your plants need to mature will help you know when to start
them in the garden. Seed packets and catalogs usually give the number of
days to harvest from the time you transplant the seedling into the
garden. So you work backwards from the time you want to harvest your
crops, keeping in mind the frost-free date.
To
raise transplants from seed--like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant,
etc.--find out how long the seed needs to germinate (also found on the
seed packet or in the catalog) along with the number of days or weeks
required for the seedling to be ready to transplant (usually four to six
weeks). Add these together and using a calendar, work backwards from
your frost-free date.
Organic Gardening Magazine has a chart to help with your calculations here.
Here
is our schedule for starting seeds indoors. Our target date for
setting out plants is the first week in April (the last expected frost).
We'll start planting seeds for:
- Peppers and Eggplant -- 8 to 12 weeks before the last frost. That would be now.
- Lettuce -- 8 to 12 weeks before the last frost. That would be now. Lettuces can be transplanted into the garden a month or so before the last frost.
- Cole crops (Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage) -- 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost. That would be the first part of February. These can be transplanted into the garden two weeks or so before the last frost.
- Tomatoes -- 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost. That would be mid February.
- Cucumbers and Melons -- 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost. That would be the first part of March. These are transplanted out two weeks or more after the last frost.
We
like to grow our plants from seed for at least two reasons. First, we
can more easily get seeds for the varieties we want to grow
(Pennsylvania Dutch Crookneck Squash, for example). Second, we choose
open pollinated and heirloom varieties (not usually available from the
nurseries as transplants) so that we can save seeds from year to year.
However,
if you are new to gardening, you may want to wait until the weather
warms up and buy plants from the nurseries or garden shops. Nurseries
tend to stock only tried-and-true varieties. These will be ready to set
out in the garden, are disease resistant, suited to your area, and in
most cases will not appear on store shelves until it is time to plant
them, give or take a couple of weeks, depending on the weather (frost).
If you choose to start seeds, we suggest you start with varieties that
germinate easily: basil, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage,
cauliflower, chives, leeks, lettuce, onions, peppers, and tomatoes.
Our favorite online seed catalogs:
Seed Savers Exchange http://www.seedsavers.org/
Territorial Seed Company http://www.territorialseed.com/
Both of these offer printed catalogs available upon request.
Territorial
Seed Co. has pretty good online "Growing Guides" for each variety of
veggie. Although just about every online or print seed catalog offers
information on how to grow various varieties, some have more detailed
information than others. Park Seeds
(http://parkseed.com/vegetables/c/vegetables/) has on most of their
detail pages a "Growing Information" tab that offers planting and
growing instructions, tips, special considerations, potential pests and
solutions, and so on for each variety.
Starting Seeds Indoors
- Gather your materials. Get your seed flats, milk cartons cut in half down the middle, small pots, or what ever it is you're going to plant your seeds in. You'll also need some potting soil or seed starter soil mix (recommended over potting soil), or make your own mix with equal parts sharp sand, peat moss, and perlite or vermiculite.
- Prepare your work space. Put down some newspaper or other suitable cover on your work surface. You're going to spill some potting soil.
- Review seed packets and make labels for your plantings. Popsicle sticks, strips cut from plastic milk jugs, ready made labels from the garden store, or simply a label taped on the side of the flat will do. Oh, and don't forget your seeds. If you're new to starting seeds and identifying seedlings, labels are must. If you have lots of garden experience, you'll know that a super-hot pepper plant looks the same as a mild-hot pepper plant. It is very easy to confuse plantings in similar looking flats or pots. Labels are a must.
- Prepare the medium. Use a watering can or a spray bottle to moisten the potting soil or seed starting mix. It should be damp to the touch but not soggy. If you start with moist soil, you will not have to water your seeds once you after you plant them. There is enough moisture in the soil to sprout the seeds. If you are planting very fine seeds, even the finest mist can dislodge your seeds and cause them all to clump together in the corners and along the edges, making separating the seedlings for replanting difficult if not impossible.
- Prepare the containers. Remember this planting is only temporary. As soon as your seedlings have their second set of leaves, you can move them to individual pots or packs (although you could start with these keeping in mind that they will use more starting mix). Fill your container with moistened starter mix and press it down gently. Top it off and press again so that the mix is within a half inch of the top. Airflow, and in some cases light, is important to seed germination. A planting surface too far below the rim of the container can interfere with these.
- Plant the seeds. If you're using a small container (like the bottom two inches of a plastic milk jug), you can scatter the seeds over the entire surface of the planting medium. If you're using a nursery flat, you can place the seeds on the surface in rows, spacing the seeds according to size (tiny seeds at least an eighth of an inch apart, medium seeds a half inch, and large seeds an inch). Remember that you are going to be transplanting the seedlings later. Separating the roots of seedlings planted too close together can be difficult if not impossible without damaging the plant. If you're using a pack with cells, put a couple of seeds in each cell. The extras can be thinned later by snipping them off with small scissors.
- Cover the seeds. Except for the very finest seeds or those few varieties that need light to germinate (the seed packet or catalog will tell) which can simply be pressed into the medium, the seeds will need to be covered with more starting medium. A general rule of thumb is to cover the seed to a depth 3 to 4 times its size. For example, a seed that is one-eighth inch in size would be covered with three-eighths to one-half inches of cover. We tend to stay toward the shallower depth when starting seeds indoors. This cover layer of mix or vermiculite does not need to be wet. It will absorb water from the moist layer below. You will not have to water your seeds until after they sprout. There will be plenty of moisture available for them.
- Cover the container. If you're using ready-made seed starting trays, put the covers on and your seeds are ready to go. If you're using re-purposed containers, you can place a piece of damp newspaper or burlap over the surface of your container. Or (our favorite), you can slip the whole container into a plastic bag, or use a plastic sheet (trash bag), tucking the edges under your container. You could possibly use aluminum foil, but we have never tried this. Clear plastic allows you to see what is happening without letting out the moisture around your seeds.
- Put the container in a warm place. Your seeds have moisture and they will need warmth to germinate. Put the covered container in a warm place, but keep it out of the sun! You don't want to steam your seeds or new seedlings. The top of the fridge might be a good place. Near the stove in the kitchen. A shelf over the dryer in the laundry room or a shelf near the water heater. We've sprouted seedlings on the dining room table and on the patio table (in warm weather). Most seeds will sprout more quickly at temperatures between about 72 and 86 degrees, but have a good germination rate at around 70. In other words, a comfortable temperature for you will be good for your seeds.
- Watch and wait. As soon as most of the seedlings emerge, they will need their plastic tent removed and to be moved to a sunny place, not necessarily in direct sunlight at first. In a future post, we'll talk about what happens next.
Containers to use for starting seeds indoors. Some ready- made, some re-purposed. |
Thursday, January 16, 2014
Goat's Milk Soap
We like to make our own soap, sometimes using goat's milk. The following tutorial clearly shows the technique we use to make our soap, although our recipe is a little different.
The products we use on our body should be just as safe and clean as the food we put into our bodies. One of the best ways to make sure of this is to make your own bath and body products. Deodorant, sunscreen, skin balm and lotion bars, lip balm, tooth powder, and soap are all simple things that are easy to make at home — so you know exactly what you’re putting on your largest organ, your skin.
When we brought home our first two dairy goats....Read more here.
Tutorial: How to Make Goat’s Milk Soap
by Lindsay ProctorThe products we use on our body should be just as safe and clean as the food we put into our bodies. One of the best ways to make sure of this is to make your own bath and body products. Deodorant, sunscreen, skin balm and lotion bars, lip balm, tooth powder, and soap are all simple things that are easy to make at home — so you know exactly what you’re putting on your largest organ, your skin.
When we brought home our first two dairy goats....Read more here.
Monday, January 13, 2014
Health Benefits of Eating Grassfed Animals
The Health Benefits of Grass Farming
Author: Jo Johnson
Why Grassfed is Best!
Consumers have been led to believe that
meat is meat is meat. In other words, no matter what an animal is fed, the
nutritional value of its products remains the same. This is not true. An
animal's diet can have a profound influence on the nutrient content of its
products.
The difference between grainfed and grassfed animal products is dramatic.
First of all, grassfed products tend to be much lower in total fat than grainfed products. For example, a sirloin steak from a grassfed steer has about one half to one third the amount of fat as a similar cut from a grainfed steer.
Read more at AmericanGrassfedBeef.com....
Saturday, January 11, 2014
67 Self-Sufficiency How-To's
- Raising Ducks 101
- How to Save Seeds
- Preparing for Cold and Flu Season With Probiotics
- Ultimate Chicken Care Guide
- How to Process Meat Rabbits
- How to Make Reusable Food Wrap
- How to Make a Clothespin Bag From an Old Pair of Jeans
- How to Flash Freeze Green Beans
- Restoring and Seasoning Rusted Cast Iron
- How to Can Peaches
- 5 Favorite Ways to Repurpose Feed Sacks
- Predator Proofing Your Coop
- How to Make Tomato Powder
- Making Venison Jerky
- How to Trim Your Goat’s Hooves
- Permaculture: Integrate Rather Than Segregate
- How to Build a Chicken Tractor
- How to Braid Garlic
- Aquaponics Intro
- Canning Butternut Squash + pressure canning primer
- Canning Grape Juice and Jelly
- Cinnamon Coconut Roasted Pumpkin Seeds
- DIY Elderberry Syrup
- DIY Flock Block
- Home Brew on the Homestead
- Homemade Sweetened Condensed Milk
- How to Store Onions
- Mulch Cover Crops for Organic Gardens
- Nourishing Soups for Cold and Flu Season
- Satsuma orange farm
- Stinging Nettle and Its Health Benefits
- 5 Awesome Apple Dips
- 10 Benefits and Uses of Apple Cider Vinegar
- Putting Chickens to Work in the Fall Garden
- Curing Olives
- Homemade Applesauce
- Extend Your Growing Season
- DIY Inexpensive Easy Food Drying Rack
- How to be an apartment homesteader
- How to Fix Soil Nutrient Deficiencies
- Seed Saving 101
- How to Prepare for Butchering
- Freezing Tomatoes
- 10 Best Herbs to Grow Indoors
- Canning Tomato Soup
- Root Cellars 101
- How to Make Apple Jelly
- How to Can Peach Salsa
- How to Grow Garlic
- Growing Garlic
- How to Freeze Mixed Vegetables
- How to Butcher a Whole Pig for a Pig Roast
- How to Make Hard Cider
- 9 ways young kids can help in the kitchen
- Basics of traditional foods
- Best cold and flu fighters
- Direct composting
- Financial realities of homesteading
- Food storage
- Heating with wood
- Homemade chicken broth
- Homemade citrus extract
- How to make buttermilk
- How to make infusions, decoctions, tinctures
- Natural stove cleaners
- Rural homesteading: four things to know
- Teaching children food preservation
Labels:
aquaponics,
chickens,
compost,
ducks,
garden planning,
self-sufficiency
Wednesday, January 8, 2014
A Post Pertaining to Pumpkin Pie Purists
![]() |
Butternut Squash |

Now, back to the pumpkins and pies. Sorry purists, but the pumpkin in our pies may not be pumpkin--at least not the pumpkin that we think of and often see on the label of some cans of "pumpkin" on store shelves.
Dickinson Pumpkins |
"Isn't that false labeling?" you may ask. The "pumpkin" in those cans can be any golden-fleshed winter squash: pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo), butternut (C. moschata), hubbard, Boston marrow (C. maxima), and so forth. Here is the official FDA policy:
CPG Sec. 585.725 "Pumpkin" -
Labeling Articles Made from Certain Varieties of Squash
BACKGROUND:Canned "pumpkin" has for many years been packed from field pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo) or certain varieties of firm-shelled, golden-fleshed, sweet squash (Cucurbita maxima), or mixtures of these. Pumpkin and squash are sometimes mixed intentionally to obtain the consistency most acceptable to users.Since l938, we have consistently advised canners that we would not initiate regulatory action solely because of their using the designation "pumpkin" or "canned pumpkin" on labels for articles prepared from golden-fleshed, sweet squash, or mixtures of such squash with field pumpkins. In the absence of any evidence that this designation misleads or deceives consumers we see no reason to change this policy.
POLICY:In the labeling of articles prepared from golden-fleshed, sweet squash or mixtures of such squash and field pumpkin, we will consider the designation "pumpkin" to be in essential compliance with the "common or usual name" requirements of sections 403(i)(l) and 403(i)(2) of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, and the "specifying of identity" required by section 1453(a)(1) of the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act.
There you have it. The FDA lets the pumpkin canners can a butternut-type squash and sell it to you as pumpkin because, it turns out, we consumers prefer butternut squash over pumpkin for pies. We just don't realize it. But we probably wouldn't buy it if it were labeled accurately.
This particular pumpkin practice has been going on for nearly a hundred years, and those of us who like to eat pumpkin pie have enjoyed the results. Having tasted a better "pumpkin" pie made from a squash other than pumpkin, I have to say this is a good thing. And, unless you are about a hundred years old or know someone that bakes pumpkin pies from scratch with real pumpkins, you've likely have never actually consumed a piece of 100% real pumpkin pie.
However, this kind of thing is one of the main reasons we like to grow as much of our own food as possible, or buy it from local organic farmers. Even though there are labeling laws, regulations, and policies, we still don't know what is in our store-bought food. The food industry can include things in our food without mentioning that addition on the label if the added substance is categorized as an industry standard or as generally safe. See Why and How We Make Our Own Ice Cream.
When we grow our own vegetables, fruits, eggs, milk, and meat, we know exactly what goes into that food and therefore what ends up on our table. We realize that not everyone has the means to do what we are doing. In fact, we are not able to grow all of our food on our property, though we do strive toward that goal. We buy what we need from local farmers (at farmers' markets) when we can and from other trusted sources when we can't.
When you purchase your food, buy single ingredients and learn to make your own dishes and desserts. For example, find a "from scratch" pumpkin pie recipe, buy a pumpkin in season (or better, a butternut squash) from a local farmer and all the other things you need to make it, and then make it yourself! (Don't be afraid to ask for help from someone who knows how.) You'll be very happy you did.
When we grow our own vegetables, fruits, eggs, milk, and meat, we know exactly what goes into that food and therefore what ends up on our table. We realize that not everyone has the means to do what we are doing. In fact, we are not able to grow all of our food on our property, though we do strive toward that goal. We buy what we need from local farmers (at farmers' markets) when we can and from other trusted sources when we can't.
When you purchase your food, buy single ingredients and learn to make your own dishes and desserts. For example, find a "from scratch" pumpkin pie recipe, buy a pumpkin in season (or better, a butternut squash) from a local farmer and all the other things you need to make it, and then make it yourself! (Don't be afraid to ask for help from someone who knows how.) You'll be very happy you did.
Sulmtaler Chickens
We're incubating a couple dozen Sulmtaler eggs we recently received from our good friends at Java Hill Farm. This variety originated in Austria in the mid to late 1800's as a table bird, and was for a time considered a delicacy.
We're trying this variety as a meat bird for a couple of reasons.
First, the meat is considered to be some of the best available, and the birds are fairly large--the rooster weighs between 7 and 9 pounds, the hen between 3.5 and 7 pounds. Hens lay about 150 smallish eggs per year--so not as many eggs per bird, so we'll add a few hens (normally we keep about twenty hens of dual-purpose varieties) to have enough fresh eggs each day. So we won't be getting large or extra large eggs each day, but we will be getting bigger birds to the table. (Granted, we could have some laying hens as well, though this complicates the coop arrangements.)
Second, the Sulmtaler is reported to be quieter than other varieties. Our hens make a lot of noise celebrating each egg they lay. Sulmtalers reportedly do not engage in this revelry. Our poor neighbors have also suffered through our Marans rooster--one loud bird. (He was very tasty though!) We're hoping that the Sulmtaler rooster will not be as loud.
In a couple of weeks our eggs will hatch, beginning our trial with this interesting and historic variety. We'll have pictures and details as they become available.
We're trying this variety as a meat bird for a couple of reasons.
First, the meat is considered to be some of the best available, and the birds are fairly large--the rooster weighs between 7 and 9 pounds, the hen between 3.5 and 7 pounds. Hens lay about 150 smallish eggs per year--so not as many eggs per bird, so we'll add a few hens (normally we keep about twenty hens of dual-purpose varieties) to have enough fresh eggs each day. So we won't be getting large or extra large eggs each day, but we will be getting bigger birds to the table. (Granted, we could have some laying hens as well, though this complicates the coop arrangements.)
Second, the Sulmtaler is reported to be quieter than other varieties. Our hens make a lot of noise celebrating each egg they lay. Sulmtalers reportedly do not engage in this revelry. Our poor neighbors have also suffered through our Marans rooster--one loud bird. (He was very tasty though!) We're hoping that the Sulmtaler rooster will not be as loud.
In a couple of weeks our eggs will hatch, beginning our trial with this interesting and historic variety. We'll have pictures and details as they become available.
Saturday, January 4, 2014
Goals for Our Mini-Farm in 2014
- achieve a more plentiful harvest from our garden and animals
- dehydrate and can more this year
- increase amount of fodder we grow
- add more garden area to the property
- add more rain catchment -- catch every drop of roof runoff
- acquire or construct solar panels
As always, we post not to brag but to encourage others. If we can do it, so can you. Please feel free to learn from our failures as well as our successes. We wish you the best in the year ahead and always.
Friday, January 3, 2014
Improve Your Soil with Compost
In our Southern California garden there are always things growing and
things to do, even in the middle of winter. We have greens, cabbage,
cauliflower, and broccoli, getting ready to harvest as well as
oranges, tangerines, limes, and avocados.
It is time to plant bare-root roses, fruit trees, and berries, and to prune our existing fruit trees and berry vines. In the next month or so, we'll be starting seeds indoors for plants to set out after the danger of frost has passed (usually around the first of April).
One thing we like to do in January is to look through the seed catalogs (they start to arrive around the first of January) and garden books for ideas. Another is to add to or begin compost piles. Compost adds nutrients and organic matter to the soil. It will improve any soil over time, even if you add no other amendments. For us December, January, and February are great months to make compost because of the availability of leaves. We have them, our neighbors have them. We get them from our neighbors for the asking (and the raking).
There are a number of different ways to make compost for the garden. Some are labor intensive, others not so much. We prefer the less labor intensive sort when we can get away with it. However, the less attention and work you give your compost, the longer it will take to be ready for your garden.
The easiest way to make compost is to make a pile and let it sit for months until it is finished and/or you are ready to use it. Pick a spot in an out of the way corner of your garden to make your pile, keeping in mind that you will be hauling stuff to and from the pile. (If your garden is in the near part of your yard, you don't want to build your compost pile in the far part of your yard. Unless of course, you enjoy using the wheelbarrow or carrying a bucket.) After you've chosen a convenient spot, scratch up or turn over the soil that will be under the pile. Then, add your yard and kitchen wastes to the pile, mixing them together as you go. You could build a bin out of wire or hardware cloth, or other materials, but this is not absolutely necessary with this method.
Add kitchen scraps (but no meat or fats) and yard trimmings to the top of the pile over time. You may need to sprinkle a little water on the pile once in a while to keep it moist but not soggy.
When you are ready to plant your
garden, remove the top layers of unfinished compost, setting them aside
for starting a new pile. The finished compost will be at the bottom of
the pile. Collect the rich, brown, earthy-smelling, finished compost into your bucket or wheelbarrow, put the unfinished
stuff in its place and head for the garden with your finished product.
You can dig the compost into the soil as you plant or you can use the compost as a mulch, or both.
There are other ways to make compost that require more effort, but produce a finished product in as little as two weeks. Duane and Karen Newcomb's book, The Postage Stamp Garden Book: Grow Tons of Vegetables in Small Spaces
has an appendix devoted to various methods of making compost.
We don't have much kitchen waste that makes it to the compost pile because most of it goes to the ducks, geese, and chickens (oh, and the rabbit, too). We do use bedding from the goat pen and yard trimmings. You can read here about Our Composting System that goes on right in the garden beds.
One of the best books we've found to help us understand the soil is Teaming with Microbes: The Organic Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web, Revised Edition
, by Lowenfels and Lewis.
It is time to plant bare-root roses, fruit trees, and berries, and to prune our existing fruit trees and berry vines. In the next month or so, we'll be starting seeds indoors for plants to set out after the danger of frost has passed (usually around the first of April).
One thing we like to do in January is to look through the seed catalogs (they start to arrive around the first of January) and garden books for ideas. Another is to add to or begin compost piles. Compost adds nutrients and organic matter to the soil. It will improve any soil over time, even if you add no other amendments. For us December, January, and February are great months to make compost because of the availability of leaves. We have them, our neighbors have them. We get them from our neighbors for the asking (and the raking).
There are a number of different ways to make compost for the garden. Some are labor intensive, others not so much. We prefer the less labor intensive sort when we can get away with it. However, the less attention and work you give your compost, the longer it will take to be ready for your garden.
The easiest way to make compost is to make a pile and let it sit for months until it is finished and/or you are ready to use it. Pick a spot in an out of the way corner of your garden to make your pile, keeping in mind that you will be hauling stuff to and from the pile. (If your garden is in the near part of your yard, you don't want to build your compost pile in the far part of your yard. Unless of course, you enjoy using the wheelbarrow or carrying a bucket.) After you've chosen a convenient spot, scratch up or turn over the soil that will be under the pile. Then, add your yard and kitchen wastes to the pile, mixing them together as you go. You could build a bin out of wire or hardware cloth, or other materials, but this is not absolutely necessary with this method.
Add kitchen scraps (but no meat or fats) and yard trimmings to the top of the pile over time. You may need to sprinkle a little water on the pile once in a while to keep it moist but not soggy.

You can dig the compost into the soil as you plant or you can use the compost as a mulch, or both.
There are other ways to make compost that require more effort, but produce a finished product in as little as two weeks. Duane and Karen Newcomb's book, The Postage Stamp Garden Book: Grow Tons of Vegetables in Small Spaces
We don't have much kitchen waste that makes it to the compost pile because most of it goes to the ducks, geese, and chickens (oh, and the rabbit, too). We do use bedding from the goat pen and yard trimmings. You can read here about Our Composting System that goes on right in the garden beds.
One of the best books we've found to help us understand the soil is Teaming with Microbes: The Organic Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web, Revised Edition
Thursday, January 2, 2014
Creating a New Normal
Creating a New Normal
[A well-reasoned, and -written defense of fundamental liberty. -DCS]
By Liz Reitzig on Nourishing Liberty.com 2 January 2014
[A well-reasoned, and -written defense of fundamental liberty. -DCS]
By Liz Reitzig on Nourishing Liberty.com 2 January 2014
“On some positions, Cowardice asks the
question, “Is it safe?” Expediency asks the question, “Is it politic?”
And Vanity asks the question, “Is it popular?” But Conscience asks the
question “Is it right?” And there comes a time when one must take a
position that is neither safe, nor politic, nor popular, but one must do
it because it is right.”
Dr. Martin Luther King Jr, March 31, 1968, less than a week before he was assassinated.
Dr. King spoke these words in protestation of war, but they are equally applicable to any moral dilemma. Dr. King strove to bring peace to people torn by abuse. Today our family farmers face a similar pattern of arbitrary and unnecessary assault. Read more on nourishingliberty.com
January Garden Tasks
January is time to plant garlic, onion, and shallot bulbs.
It's time also to prune roses. By the way, if you have plants that have been damaged by frost (like our kiwi vines), do not prune off the damaged parts. They may be ugly, but they'll help protect the rest of the plant from further frost damage.
Rake your lawn and/or your neighbors' lawns for leaves for your compost pile.
Once all the leaves have fallen from your fruit trees, you can prune them. While you are pruning your deciduous trees you can also trim your conifers.
Purchase and plant bare-root roses, fruit trees, vines, and veggies. Camellias and Azaleas, too.
Spray your roses and deciduous trees with a dormant spray.
Order seeds and supplies from seed catalogs (more on that in the next post).
It's time also to prune roses. By the way, if you have plants that have been damaged by frost (like our kiwi vines), do not prune off the damaged parts. They may be ugly, but they'll help protect the rest of the plant from further frost damage.
Rake your lawn and/or your neighbors' lawns for leaves for your compost pile.
Once all the leaves have fallen from your fruit trees, you can prune them. While you are pruning your deciduous trees you can also trim your conifers.
Purchase and plant bare-root roses, fruit trees, vines, and veggies. Camellias and Azaleas, too.
Spray your roses and deciduous trees with a dormant spray.
Order seeds and supplies from seed catalogs (more on that in the next post).
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