Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Our Approach to Everyday Living

  1. Grow. Grow food. Garden. Raise Animals and Fish for Meat.
  2. Cook. Prepare real, whole foods (in the form God created them), from scratch, using traditional methods.
  3. Clean. Life and cooking from scratch are messy. Accept responsibility. Clean up using as few toxic words and chemicals as possible.
  4. Love. Love the Lord and his creation. Love life; be content; be gracious.
  5. Learn. Learn about God, self, and nature. Teach others. Expand horizons. Admit mistakes and make changes.
     
  6. Repeat. Repeat 1-5. Thankfully, today is short and tomorrow’s a new day.

Thursday, January 23, 2014

Free Composting Workshop


Saturday, February 1, 2014
10:00 AM 

The Water Conservation Garden

12122 Cuyamaca College Dr W
(Next to Cuyamaca College)
El Cajon, CA (map)
In our 2-hour, interactive workshops you will learn the basics of backyard composting and vermicomposting (composting with worms). Using trial-tested advice and interactive demonstrations, our expert educators will teach you all you need to know to get started with a bin that fits your needs and lifestyle. Held throughout the County, there is sure to be a workshop near you! We invite you to join us to learn more about composting and how it can benefit your garden, home, and community.
Compost bins will be sold at the end of the workshop with subsidized prices for Unincorporated County residents so don't forget to bring cash or a check.

To register for this workshop, please call the Solana Center at (760) 436-7986 ext. 222, or visit http://www.solanacenter.org/forms/water-conservation-garden-composting-workshop-feb-1

Contact us: (760) 436-7986

Lawn to Garden

Do you have a sunny patch of lawn you could transform into a garden spot? The easiest way to convert a lawn into a garden does not employ even as much as a single shovel. Sheet mulching—a simple technique that involves layering organic materials right over the turf—kills the grass and leaves develops a garden bed with rich soil. A considerable amount of organic debris goes into the bed construction, so that stockpile of autumn leaves and yard trimmings, composted manure, and garden waste will come in handy. If you don't have said stockpile, you can go to the garden center and buy compost in bags.

Mark off the area of lawn where your garden bed will be.  Scalp the grass within the outline with a lawn mower. Add your 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 frame(s) if you use them. A four foot by eight foot framed raised bed will grow a lot of veggies!

Spread a 2-inch layer of compost or composted manure over the bed. This helps encourage microbial activity in the soil and speeds decomposition. Moisten the compost well.

Cover the compost with overlapping pieces of cardboard to smother the underlying vegetation and prevent light from reaching any weed seeds. Soak the cardboard with water.

Spread a 2-inch layer of compost over the cardboard and top it with up to 18 inches of mixed organic material (grass clippings, leaves, straw, seaweed, garden debris, farmyard manure, or more compost).

Include vegetable and fruit scraps and coffee grounds from the kitchen in the layers of organic matter.You can add kitchen scraps over the next few weeks by burying them in the bed. Alternate locations within the bed (don't bury scraps in the same place twice) to provide good coverage of nutrients, and to hasten decomposition.

For vegetable beds, top with a couple of inches of straw if you have it or about 6 inches of grass clippings. For ornamental beds, top with 4 inches of wood chips. In arid climates, water the bed as needed to keep the materials moist but not soaking wet. Soil microbes and earthworms will work to decompose the organic materials, including the cardboard and sod. The kitchen scraps, compost, and moisture will attract them, or you can add them to your bed.  (Get over to the sporting goods store and get some red wigglers, go fishing, bring back the left over worms to add to your garden bed!)

By the time temperatures allow planting out (the frost-free date, give or take a week or two), your bed should be ready.




Time to Start Seeds Indoors

It’s time to plan our Spring garden. For some gardeners, planning is about all that can be done until the weather warms up.

The first decision to make in garden planning is what to grow. All plants are easy to grow if you know how. Our advice is that you grow only what you plan to eat. If you don't eat beets, don't grow them--at least at first (beets are very good for you, by the way). Start with a few things that you consistently buy at the produce market. Tomatoes are the most popular home-grown vegetable, but if you don't eat tomatoes don't grow them. (A tomato is actually a fruit, but defined by the government for tax purposes as a vegetable; see Nix v. Hedden)

For us, the last frost is expected in mid March or early April. My grandfather, whose real-sized farm was only a few miles from our mini-farm, used to plant corn every two weeks or so starting in mid to late March so that he would be sure to have corn to harvest for celebrations on the 4th of July and on thru the summer. He planted Golden Bantam (as do we) which is ready to harvest about 80 days after planting.

Knowing how long your plants need to mature will help you know when to start them in the garden. Seed packets and catalogs usually give the number of days to harvest from the time you transplant the seedling into the garden. So you work backwards from the time you want to harvest your crops, keeping in mind the frost-free date. 

To raise transplants from seed--like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, etc.--find out how long the seed needs to germinate (also found on the seed packet or in the catalog) along with the number of days or weeks required for the seedling to be ready to transplant (usually four to six weeks). Add these together and using a calendar, work backwards from your frost-free date. 

Organic Gardening Magazine has a chart to help with your calculations here.

Here is our schedule for starting seeds indoors. Our target date for setting out plants is the first week in April (the last expected frost). We'll start planting seeds for:

  • Peppers and Eggplant -- 8 to 12 weeks before the last frost. That would be now.
  • Lettuce -- 8 to 12 weeks before the last frost. That would be now. Lettuces can be transplanted into the garden a month or so before the last frost.
  • Cole crops (Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage) -- 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost. That would be the first part of February. These can be transplanted into the garden two weeks or so before the last frost.
  • Tomatoes -- 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost. That would be mid February.
  • Cucumbers and Melons -- 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost. That would be the first part of March. These are transplanted out two weeks or more after the last frost. 

We like to grow our plants from seed for at least two reasons. First, we can more easily get seeds for the varieties we want to grow (Pennsylvania Dutch Crookneck Squash, for example). Second, we choose open pollinated and heirloom varieties (not usually available from the nurseries as transplants) so that we can save seeds from year to year. 

However, if you are new to gardening, you may want to wait until the weather warms up and buy plants from the nurseries or garden shops. Nurseries tend to stock only tried-and-true varieties. These will be ready to set out in the garden, are disease resistant, suited to your area, and in most cases will not appear on store shelves until it is time to plant them, give or take a couple of weeks, depending on the weather (frost). If you choose to start seeds, we suggest you start with varieties that germinate easily: basil, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, chives, leeks, lettuce, onions, peppers, and tomatoes. 

Our favorite online seed catalogs:

Seed Savers Exchange http://www.seedsavers.org/
Territorial Seed Company http://www.territorialseed.com/

Both of these offer printed catalogs available upon request. 

Territorial Seed Co. has pretty good online "Growing Guides" for each variety of veggie. Although just about every online or print seed catalog offers information on how to grow various varieties, some have more detailed information than others. Park Seeds (http://parkseed.com/vegetables/c/vegetables/) has on most of their detail pages a "Growing Information" tab that offers planting and growing instructions, tips, special considerations, potential pests and solutions, and so on for each variety.


Our favorite book on starting plants from seed is The New Seed Starter's Handbook by Nancy Bubel. It's main sections include: Starting Seeds Indoors, Moving Plants Outdoors, Special Techniques and Situations, Saving Seeds and Making Further Plans, and an Encyclopedia of Plants to Grow from Seed (the info you need to grow each variety of garden plant). 

Starting Seeds Indoors

  1. Gather your materials. Get your seed flats, milk cartons cut in half down the middle, small pots, or what ever it is you're going to plant your seeds in. You'll also need some potting soil or seed starter soil mix (recommended over potting soil), or make your own mix with equal parts sharp sand, peat moss, and perlite or vermiculite.
  2. Prepare your work space. Put down some newspaper or other suitable cover on your work surface. You're going to spill some potting soil.
  3. Review seed packets and make labels for your plantings. Popsicle sticks, strips cut from plastic milk jugs, ready made labels from the garden store, or simply a label taped on the side of the flat will do. Oh, and don't forget your seeds. If you're new to starting seeds and identifying seedlings, labels are must. If you have lots of garden experience, you'll know that a super-hot pepper plant looks the same as a mild-hot pepper plant. It is very easy to confuse plantings in similar looking flats or pots. Labels are a must.
  4. Prepare the medium. Use a watering can or a spray bottle to moisten the potting soil or seed starting mix. It should be damp to the touch but not soggy. If you start with moist soil, you will not have to water your seeds once you after you plant them. There is enough moisture in the soil to sprout the seeds. If you are planting very fine seeds, even the finest mist can dislodge your seeds and cause them all to clump together in the corners and along the edges, making separating the seedlings for replanting difficult if not impossible.
  5. Containers to use for starting seeds indoors. Some ready-
    made, some re-purposed.
  6. Prepare the containers.  Remember this planting is only temporary. As soon as your seedlings have their second set of leaves, you can move them to individual pots or packs (although you could start with these keeping in mind that they will use more starting mix). Fill your container with moistened starter mix and press it down gently. Top it off and press again so that the mix is within a half inch of the top.  Airflow, and in some cases light, is important to seed germination. A planting surface too far below the rim of the container can interfere with these.
  7. Plant the seeds. If you're using a small container (like the bottom two inches of a plastic milk jug), you can scatter the seeds over the entire surface of the planting medium. If you're using a nursery flat, you can place the seeds on the surface in rows, spacing the seeds according to size (tiny seeds at least an eighth of an inch apart, medium seeds a half inch, and large seeds an inch). Remember that you are going to be transplanting the seedlings later. Separating the roots of seedlings planted too close together can be difficult if not impossible without damaging the plant. If you're using a pack with cells, put a couple of seeds in each cell. The extras can be thinned later by snipping them off with small scissors.
  8. Cover the seeds. Except for the very finest seeds or those few varieties that need light to germinate (the seed packet or catalog will tell) which can simply be pressed into the medium, the seeds will need to be covered with more starting medium. A general rule of thumb is to cover the seed to a depth 3 to 4 times its size. For example, a seed that is one-eighth inch in size would be covered with three-eighths to one-half inches of cover. We tend to stay toward the shallower depth when starting seeds indoors. This cover layer of mix or vermiculite does not need to be wet. It will absorb water from the moist layer below. You will not have to water your seeds until after they sprout. There will be plenty of moisture available for them.
  9. Cover the container. If you're using ready-made seed starting trays, put the covers on and your seeds are ready to go. If you're using re-purposed containers, you can place a piece of damp newspaper or burlap over the surface of your container. Or (our favorite), you can slip the whole container into a plastic bag, or use a plastic sheet (trash bag), tucking the edges under your container. You could possibly use aluminum foil, but we have never tried this. Clear plastic allows you to see what is happening without letting out the moisture around your seeds.
  10. Put the container in a warm place. Your seeds have moisture and they will need warmth to germinate. Put the covered container in a warm place, but keep it out of the sun! You don't want to steam your seeds or new seedlings. The top of the fridge might be a good place. Near the stove in the kitchen. A shelf over the dryer in the laundry room or a shelf near the water heater. We've sprouted seedlings on the dining room table and on the patio table (in warm weather). Most seeds will sprout more quickly at temperatures between about 72 and 86 degrees, but have a good germination rate at around 70. In other words, a comfortable temperature for you will be good for your seeds.
  11. Watch and wait. As soon as most of the seedlings emerge, they will need their plastic tent removed and to be moved to a sunny place, not necessarily in direct sunlight at first. In a future post, we'll talk about what happens next.   

Thursday, January 16, 2014

Goat's Milk Soap

We like to make our own soap, sometimes using goat's milk. The following tutorial clearly shows the technique we use to make our soap, although our recipe is a little different.

Tutorial: How to Make Goat’s Milk Soap

by Lindsay Proctor

The products we use on our body should be just as safe and clean as the food we put into our bodies. One of the best ways to make sure of this is to make your own bath and body products. Deodorant, sunscreen, skin balm and lotion bars, lip balm, tooth powder, and soap are all simple things that are easy to make at home — so you know exactly what you’re putting on your largest organ, your skin.

When we brought home our first two dairy goats....Read more here.

Monday, January 13, 2014

Health Benefits of Eating Grassfed Animals

The Health Benefits of Grass Farming

Author: Jo Johnson
Why Grassfed is Best!

Consumers have been led to believe that meat is meat is meat. In other words, no matter what an animal is fed, the nutritional value of its products remains the same. This is not true. An animal's diet can have a profound influence on the nutrient content of its products.

The difference between grainfed and grassfed animal products is dramatic.

First of all, grassfed products tend to be much lower in total fat than grainfed products. For example, a sirloin steak from a grassfed steer has about one half to one third the amount of fat as a similar cut from a grainfed steer.

Read more at AmericanGrassfedBeef.com....

Saturday, January 11, 2014

67 Self-Sufficiency How-To's

  1. Raising Ducks 101 
  2. How to Save Seeds
  3. Preparing for Cold and Flu Season With Probiotics
  4. Ultimate Chicken Care Guide
  5. How to Process Meat Rabbits
  6. How to Make Reusable Food Wrap
  7. How to Make a Clothespin Bag From an Old Pair of Jeans
  8. How to Flash Freeze Green Beans
  9. Restoring and Seasoning Rusted Cast Iron
  10. How to Can Peaches
  11. 5 Favorite Ways to Repurpose Feed Sacks
  12. Predator Proofing Your Coop
  13. How to Make Tomato Powder
  14. Making Venison Jerky
  15. How to Trim Your Goat’s Hooves
  16. Permaculture: Integrate Rather Than Segregate
  17. How to Build a Chicken Tractor
  18. How to Braid Garlic
  19. Aquaponics Intro
  20. Canning Butternut Squash + pressure canning primer
  21. Canning Grape Juice and Jelly
  22. Cinnamon Coconut Roasted Pumpkin Seeds
  23. DIY Elderberry Syrup
  24. DIY Flock Block
  25. Home Brew on the Homestead
  26. Homemade Sweetened Condensed Milk
  27. How to Store Onions
  28. Mulch Cover Crops for Organic Gardens
  29. Nourishing Soups for Cold and Flu Season
  30. Satsuma orange farm
  31. Stinging Nettle and Its Health Benefits
  32. 5 Awesome Apple Dips
  33. 10 Benefits and Uses of Apple Cider Vinegar
  34. Putting Chickens to Work in the Fall Garden
  35. Curing Olives
  36. Homemade Applesauce
  37. Extend Your Growing Season
  38. DIY Inexpensive Easy Food Drying Rack 
  39. How to be an apartment homesteader
  40. How to Fix Soil Nutrient Deficiencies
  41. Seed Saving 101
  42. How to Prepare for Butchering
  43. Freezing Tomatoes
  44. 10 Best Herbs to Grow Indoors
  45. Canning Tomato Soup
  46. Root Cellars 101
  47. How to Make Apple Jelly
  48. How to Can Peach Salsa
  49. How to Grow Garlic
  50. Growing Garlic
  51. How to Freeze Mixed Vegetables
  52. How to Butcher a Whole Pig for a Pig Roast
  53. How to Make Hard Cider
  54. 9 ways young kids can help in the kitchen
  55. Basics of traditional foods
  56. Best cold and flu fighters
  57. Direct composting
  58. Financial realities of homesteading
  59. Food storage
  60. Heating with wood
  61. Homemade chicken broth
  62. Homemade citrus extract
  63. How to make buttermilk
  64. How to make infusions, decoctions, tinctures
  65. Natural stove cleaners
  66. Rural homesteading: four things to know
  67. Teaching children food preservation

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

A Post Pertaining to Pumpkin Pie Purists

Butternut Squash
Denise has been making pumpkin pies out of home-grown pink banana squash, butternut squash (pictured), Pennsylvania Dutch Crookneck Squash (our favorite to grow), and also pumpkins for over a decade. Pumpkin pie is my favorite dessert, and when I was a kid it was my favorite food, period. I was a pumpkin pie purist--if you're going to call it pumpkin pie, it should be, well, pie, made out of pumpkin, right? That's what I thought, too, until while visiting a friend, I tasted pumpkin pie made with pink banana squash. It tasted like pumpkin pie, but better, and the texture was smoother!

By the way, I am still a pumpkin pie purist when it comes to other things flavored with pumpkin. I don't care for (and never have) most of the pumpkin-flavored items that appear in the stores and in recipes online around Thanksgiving and Christmas like candles, air freshener, cookies, crispy treats, candy, ice cream, or oven pastries. I especially do not care for pumpkin flavored coffee (I am also somewhat of a coffee purist, so this is just waaaay toooo over the top). Pumpkin bread is about the only exception--I like it.


Now, back to the pumpkins and pies. Sorry purists, but the pumpkin in our pies may not be pumpkin--at least not the pumpkin that we think of and often see on the label of some cans of "pumpkin" on store shelves.

Dickinson Pumpkins
In fact, Libby, the company responsible for about 80 percent of the canned "pumpkin" in the market, had a "pumpkin" developed especially to increase yields and improve taste and texture. It is more closely related to the butternut squash (C. moschata), than a true pumpkin (C. pepo).  On a can of Libby's it clearly says "100% Pure Pumpkin." While a slice of pumpkin pie is featured on the the label, there is no orange spherical pumpkin pictured except in a seal that proclaims "100 Years of Quality." The pumpkin in Libby's is the Dickinson pumpkin, a pinkish oblong squash. If Libby put that on the label most folks would pass it right by.

"Isn't that false labeling?" you may ask. The "pumpkin" in those cans can be any golden-fleshed winter squash: pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo), butternut (C. moschata), hubbard, Boston marrow (C. maxima), and so forth. Here is the official FDA policy:

CPG Sec. 585.725 "Pumpkin" -
Labeling Articles Made from Certain Varieties of Squash

  
BACKGROUND:
Canned "pumpkin" has for many years been packed from field pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo) or certain varieties of firm-shelled, golden-fleshed, sweet squash (Cucurbita maxima), or mixtures of these. Pumpkin and squash are sometimes mixed intentionally to obtain the consistency most acceptable to users.
Since l938, we have consistently advised canners that we would not initiate regulatory action solely because of their using the designation "pumpkin" or "canned pumpkin" on labels for articles prepared from golden-fleshed, sweet squash, or mixtures of such squash with field pumpkins. In the absence of any evidence that this designation misleads or deceives consumers we see no reason to change this policy.
POLICY:
In the labeling of articles prepared from golden-fleshed, sweet squash or mixtures of such squash and field pumpkin, we will consider the designation "pumpkin" to be in essential compliance with the "common or usual name" requirements of sections 403(i)(l) and 403(i)(2) of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, and the "specifying of identity" required by section 1453(a)(1) of the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act.
There you have it. The FDA lets the pumpkin canners can a butternut-type squash and sell it to you as pumpkin because, it turns out, we consumers prefer butternut squash over pumpkin for pies. We just don't realize it. But we probably wouldn't buy it if it were labeled accurately.

This particular pumpkin practice has been going on for nearly a hundred years, and those of us who like to eat pumpkin pie have enjoyed the results. Having tasted a better "pumpkin" pie made from a squash other than pumpkin, I have to say this is a good thing. And, unless you are about a hundred years old or know someone that bakes pumpkin pies from scratch with real pumpkins, you've likely have never actually consumed a piece of 100% real pumpkin pie.

However, this kind of thing is one of the main reasons we like to grow as much of our own food as possible, or buy it from local organic farmers. Even though there are labeling  laws, regulations, and policies, we still don't know what is in our store-bought food. The food industry can include things in our food without mentioning that addition on the label if the added substance is categorized as an industry standard or as generally safe. See Why and How We Make Our Own Ice Cream.

When we grow our own vegetables, fruits, eggs, milk, and meat, we know exactly what goes into that food and therefore what ends up on our table. We realize that not everyone has the means to do what we are doing. In fact, we are not able to grow all of our food on our property, though we do strive toward that goal. We buy what we need from local farmers (at farmers' markets) when we can and from other trusted sources when we can't.

When you purchase your food, buy single ingredients and learn to make your own dishes and desserts. For example, find a "from scratch" pumpkin pie recipe, buy a pumpkin in season (or better, a butternut squash) from a local farmer and all the other things you need to make it, and then make it yourself! (Don't be afraid to ask for help from someone who knows how.) You'll be very happy you did.


Sulmtaler Chickens

We're incubating a couple dozen Sulmtaler eggs we recently received from our good friends at Java Hill Farm. This variety originated in Austria in the mid to late 1800's as a table bird, and was for a time considered a delicacy.

We're trying this variety as a meat bird for a couple of reasons.

First, the meat is considered to be some of the best available, and the birds are fairly large--the rooster weighs between 7 and 9 pounds, the hen between 3.5 and 7 pounds. Hens lay about 150 smallish eggs per year--so not as many eggs per bird, so we'll add a few hens (normally we keep about twenty hens of dual-purpose varieties)  to have enough fresh eggs each day. So we won't be getting large or extra large eggs each day, but we will be getting bigger birds to the table. (Granted, we could have some laying hens as well, though this complicates the coop arrangements.)

Second, the Sulmtaler is reported to be quieter than other varieties. Our hens make a lot of noise celebrating each egg they lay. Sulmtalers reportedly do not engage in this revelry. Our poor neighbors have also suffered through our Marans rooster--one loud bird. (He was very tasty though!) We're hoping that the Sulmtaler rooster will not be as loud.

In a couple of weeks our eggs will hatch, beginning our trial with this interesting and historic variety. We'll have pictures and details as they become available.

Saturday, January 4, 2014

Goals for Our Mini-Farm in 2014

Here are some general goals for our self-sufficiency effort this year:

  • achieve a more plentiful harvest from our garden and animals
  • dehydrate and can more this year
  • increase amount of fodder we grow
  • add more garden area to the property
  • add more rain catchment -- catch every drop of roof runoff
  • acquire or construct solar panels
Like many New Year's resolutions, these as stated are too broad or vague to be effective goals. The details and action steps need to be developed, fine tuned, and then implemented. As we focus on each of the above, we'll be publishing our plans, efforts and the effects.

As always, we post not to brag but to encourage others. If we can do it, so can you. Please feel free to learn from our failures as well as our successes. We wish you the best in the year ahead and always.

Friday, January 3, 2014

Improve Your Soil with Compost

In our Southern California garden there are always things growing and things to do, even in the middle of winter. We have greens, cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli, getting ready to harvest as well as oranges, tangerines, limes, and avocados.

It is time to plant bare-root roses, fruit trees, and berries, and to prune our existing fruit trees and berry vines.  In the next month or so, we'll be starting seeds indoors for plants to set out after the danger of frost has passed (usually around the first of April).

One thing we like to do in January is to look through the seed catalogs (they start to arrive around the first of January) and garden books for ideas. Another is to add to or begin compost piles. Compost adds nutrients and organic matter to the soil. It will improve any soil over time, even if you add no other amendments. For us December, January,  and February are great months to make compost because of the availability of leaves. We have them, our neighbors have them. We get them from our neighbors for the asking (and the raking).

There are a number of different ways to make compost for the garden. Some are labor intensive, others not so much. We prefer the less labor intensive sort when we can get away with it. However, the less attention and work you give your compost, the longer it will take to be ready for your garden.

The easiest way to make compost is to make a pile and let it sit for months until it is finished and/or you are ready to use it. Pick a spot in an out of the way corner of your garden to make your pile, keeping in mind that you will be hauling stuff to and from the pile. (If your garden is in the near part of your yard, you don't want to build your compost pile in the far part of your yard. Unless of course, you enjoy using the wheelbarrow or carrying a bucket.)  After you've chosen a convenient spot, scratch up or turn over the soil that will be under the pile. Then, add your yard and kitchen wastes to the pile, mixing them together as you go. You could build a bin out of wire or hardware cloth, or other materials, but this is not absolutely necessary with this method.

Add kitchen scraps (but no meat or fats) and yard trimmings to the top of the pile over time. You may need to sprinkle a little water on the pile once in a while to keep it moist but not soggy.

When you are ready to plant your garden, remove the top layers of unfinished compost, setting them aside for starting a new pile. The finished compost will be at the bottom of the pile. Collect the rich, brown, earthy-smelling, finished compost into your bucket or wheelbarrow, put the unfinished stuff in its place and head for the garden with your finished product.

You can dig the compost into the soil as you plant or you can use the compost as a mulch, or both.

There are other ways to make compost that require more effort, but produce a finished product in as little as two weeks. Duane and Karen Newcomb's book, The Postage Stamp Garden Book: Grow Tons of Vegetables in Small Spaces has an appendix devoted to various methods of making compost.

We don't have much kitchen waste that makes it to the compost pile because most of it goes to the ducks, geese, and chickens (oh, and the rabbit, too). We do use bedding from the goat pen and yard trimmings. You can read here about Our Composting System that goes on right in the garden beds.

One of the best books we've found to help us understand the soil is Teaming with Microbes: The Organic Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web, Revised Edition, by Lowenfels and Lewis.

Thursday, January 2, 2014

Creating a New Normal



Joel Salatin And Liz Reitzig
Joel Salatin and Liz Reitzig
“On some positions, Cowardice asks the question, “Is it safe?” Expediency asks the question, “Is it politic?” And Vanity asks the question, “Is it popular?” But Conscience asks the question “Is it right?” And there comes a time when one must take a position that is neither safe, nor politic, nor popular, but one must do it because it is right.”

Dr. Martin Luther King Jr, March 31, 1968, less than a week before he was assassinated.

Dr. King spoke these words in protestation of war, but they are equally applicable to any moral dilemma. Dr. King strove to bring peace to people torn by abuse. Today our family farmers face a similar pattern of arbitrary and unnecessary assault. Read more on nourishingliberty.com

January Garden Tasks

January is time to plant garlic, onion, and shallot bulbs.

It's time also to prune roses. By the way, if you have plants that have been damaged by frost (like our kiwi vines), do not prune off the damaged parts. They may be ugly, but they'll help protect the rest of the plant from further frost damage.

Rake your lawn and/or your neighbors' lawns for leaves for your compost pile.

Once all the leaves have fallen from your fruit trees, you can prune them. While you are pruning your deciduous trees you can also trim your conifers.

Purchase and plant bare-root roses, fruit trees, vines, and veggies. Camellias and  Azaleas, too. 

Spray your roses and deciduous trees with a dormant spray.

Order seeds and supplies from seed catalogs (more on that in the next post).