Thursday, June 20, 2013

Storing Fruits and Veggies So They'll Keep


The average American household throws out almost 500 pounds of spoiled produce every year. That's a huge waste considering that the produce-gone-bad is about one-seventh of the food the average family buys.

That's a lot of brown-black bananas, wilted spinach, and mushy peaches! If we could keep these items fresher a little longer, we might not have to throw out so much.

Chemistry is part of the answer. No, not more preservatives--we have way too many of those in our food supply already. If we learn some important aspects of the natural chemistry of the produce we keep, and make storage arrangements accordingly, we'll have more time to be able to use more of what we store.

Our Anna Apples
Like all other living things, fruits and vegetables breathe. Respiration continues long after harvest. Some produce gives off ethylene gas, a ripening agent, while others are sensitive to it. Those sensitive to it will "over-ripen" quickly in its presence. If you put ethylene producing apples in a drawer with ethylene-sensitive kale, the kale will yellow and wilt almost overnight. One thing we can do to help keeping everyone happy in the fridge is to keep the two groups away from each other--the ethylene-makers on one side and the ethylene-sensitives on the other.

Temperature also has an effect on the longevity of produce as well. Typically, the warmer the air, the faster the decay. Respiration is slower the lower the temperature. But slowing respiration too much is not a good thing. If you keep your produce in an air-tight bag, it will suffocate and spoil all the faster. 
Also, just as some produce is ethylene-sensitive, some is cold-sensitive--refrigeration will ruin them. Potatoes, onions, winter squash, and garlic, for example will last much longer in cool (not cold), dark, dry conditions.

KEEP THESE ETHYLENE PRODUCERS COOL

Apples
Apricots
Blueberries
Cantaloupe
Grapes
Green onions
Honeydew
Mushrooms

 

KEEP THESE ETHYLENE PRODUCERS OUT OF THE COLD

Avocados
Bananas, unripe
Nectarines
Peaches
Pears
Plums
Tomatoes

KEEP THESE FRUITS AND VEGGIES AWAY FROM ALL ETHYLENE PRODUCERS

Asparagus
Bananas, ripe
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Chard
Cauliflower
Cucumbers
Eggplant
Kale
Kiwi fruit
Lettuce
Leafy Greens
Parsley
Peas
Potatoes
Spinach
Squash
Sweet potatoes
Watermelon


Sources: http://www.nysipm.cornell.edu/organic_guide/stored_fruit_veg.pdf

Thursday, June 6, 2013

June in the Garden

Replenish mulches around plants; it reduces weeds, conserves moisture, and prevents disease.

Work compost into beds, then plant fall crops of peppers and eggplant.

Direct-seed collards and tomatoes for fall harvest.

Continue to plant vegetables and herbs -- cantaloupes, corn, cucumbers, okra, peanuts, southern peas, summer squash, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and bush beans. Also plant basil, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary and thyme and other heat-lovers. Continue planting sweet corn in small blocks, every 2 weeks for continuous harvest through fall.

Thin fruit on trees early in the month, after June drop; mulch root area with a thin layer of compost, topped with 3 inches of organic mulch.
    
Look for slow-moving bugs in the cool of the morning; hand-pick them, then dust below the plants with diatomaceous earth (be sure to use a dust mask so you don't inhale the dust).

Water plants in the morning so they don't become susceptible to fungus and insect infestation.

Stop watering onions and garlic grown for bulbs when leaves being to turn yellow. Dig bulbs when tops have fallen over and place in a shady, well ventilated area to cure.

Wash fruit trees periodically with a forceful spray of water to remove dust, honeydew and pests like aphids, whiteflies and spider mites.

Kill pests and disease in vacant beds by covering moist soil with clear plastic for several weeks.

Harvest your summer vegetables as soon as they are ready. Don't let them rot and drop to the ground. This can bring insects and disease. See our harvest guide.

Prune back perennial herbs like rosemary. Continue to harvest as herbs mature.

Continue to feed avocado and citrus trees. Check for pests and diseases. Irrigate as needed to maintain adequate soil moisture.  Watch for chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves between the veins, a sign of iron deficiency). Feed with a good iron supplement such as Ironite.   

Fertilize Plumeria with a low nitrogen fertilizer. Plant new or re-pot plants to replace old soil with a fresh mix.


Saturday, May 25, 2013

When is Sweet Corn Ready to Pick?

How do you tell when your sweet corn is ready to harvest?  When will it have the best flavor and texture? It doesn't matter what variety of sweet corn it is, whether yellow, white, or bi-color, the test for ripeness is the same.

First, the ear of corn will fill out on the stalk. Once the ears begin to fill out, the silk at the top of the ear will begin to dry and turn brown. When you see this browning begin, peel back the husk to see if there are plump kernels inside. Press open a plump kernel with your thumbnail. If the fluid is clear, it is not time to harvest this ear. Put the husk back in place and secure it in place with twine or a rubber band if necessary. If the fluid is milky, it is time to pick. If the liquid is white and thick, the ear is over ripe.

Before you pick any ears, however, go put a pot of water on the stove and while it's coming to a boil go out and harvest your ears of corn, shuck them, and cut off the stems and any bad tips. Bring them into the kitchen, rinse them if you need to, and put them in the pot as soon as it comes to a boil. Just when the water comes back to a boil, pull out those sweet ears and enjoy the best corn you'll ever taste!


My grandfather used to say that you wait a few days after the silks turn brown to start checking for ripeness. Don't wait more that three or four days, though, because you want the corn in the pot at peak ripeness. That is, before the too much of the sugar in the kernels turns to starch.(milky vs. white liquid).



It helps also to know the variety of corn, the date you planted it and the days to harvest from that planting, so you know when to start watching the corn more closely for signs of ripeness.

If you plant an open pollinated variety, and you happen to let an early, nice looking ear of corn go past ripeness, let it continue to ripen and then dry on the stalk until about a month after your your corn harvest is done. After the husks turn brown, remove them from the plant and put them in a cool dry place, out of direct sun light. Once they are completely dry you can store them in a cool dry place until next year for seed.

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

New to Real Food?

10 Tips for Real Food Newbies

 If you’re just starting out, just learning and baby-stepping away from packaged and boxed foods into a diet based on wholesome, natural traditional foods, those first few weeks (months? years?) can feel daunting at best, and completely impossible at worst. It’s hard, especially if you were raised on Lean Cuisine, Pop Tarts and Crystal Light. Never mind the conflicting information in the media. . .
Read more at
NourishedKitchen .com


Making Your Own Cultured & Fermented Foods

Save Money Making Your Own Cultured & Fermented Foods

Times are tough and we are all looking for ways to shrink our grocery budget while still providing our family with delicious real food. It is possible to feed your family nutrient dense cultured foods on a budget! The secret is to make your own.

Making your own cultured and fermented foods at home is easy, quick, and can save you 30% to 97% over the grocery store.   More at Cultures for Health

Sunday, May 5, 2013

Muscovies

One of our Muscovy ducks recently hatched a brood of eleven ducklings!

Muscovies are excellent livestock for backyard homesteading, mini-farming purposes.

While they are often referred to as a duck, they aren’t related to the Mallard like the other domestic duck breeds. They have some characteristics of ducks, but are also similar to geese. They don't take to deep water like ducks, though they enjoy having plenty of water to wash in. Like other waterfowl they need water deep enough to submerge their nostrils and eyes to keep them clean. Like ducks, they like to mix their food with water--what a mess in the brooder pens. Muscovies are South American birds that like to roost in trees at night, and have fairly sharp claws that enable them to do so. They're not strong flyers, but they have no trouble clearing our five- and six-foot fences, if we don't remove the flight feathers from one wing.

One thing is for certain, Muscovies are much quieter than either our ducks or our geese. In fact they make no sound except for a rare, short "peep" and a warning "hiss." This is a good animal to have in a close neighborhood. Muscovy drakes weigh up to about 15 pounds and ducks weigh about half of that. They come in a variety of colors, and in our experience color of the offspring is not dependent on the color of the parents.

Muscovies are grazers like geese and a large part of their diet at our place comes from good forage--weeds in the margins of the yard and in the lawn, and the lawn itself. We haven't mowed our back lawn since March of last year, just before our water fowl arrived. They keep it mowed. Their droppings dissolve right into the lawn with a good rain, a decent run of the sprinklers, or a blast from the hose. Lawn mowed, fertilized and watered--just like that. Like ducks, they’ll happily clean up food wasted by other animals and they love live worms, slugs, earwigs, flies and mosquitoes. Our little ducklings have been hunting flies since the day they hatched.

Our Muscovies and other water birds take cover at night under our dwarf citrus trees (the branches hang fairly close to the ground). Other simple housing (a portable pen, a shed) offers protection from predators.

Muscovies are said to set clutches of between 8 and 20 eggs, three or four times per year. Ours are on track for those numbers. We have a drake and two ducks. One duck has started a clutch of eggs, but none hatched (35 days is the incubation period). We have an incubator we have used for chickens and our Campbell ducks and are planning to use it for our geese (although right now our goose, Buttercup, is sitting on a clutch of about 20).  If a hen, duck, or goose hatches its own brood, she'll provide warmth for the hatchlings. We don't have to provide a brooder. The offspring are more likely to hatch and brood their own if they had been brooded by their mother. So we resist using the incubator unless it becomes obvious after a few tries that the mama will not sit on her eggs long enough for them to hatch.

Anecdotal evidence indicates that Muscovies are usually better mothers than other ducks and that it’s best to keep the drakes separate from the ducklings. They may sometimes unintentionally trample ducklings. Our drake, Socks, however is a great dad. He will stand watch as mama duck and the ducklings eat. When they have eaten, he will take his turn. We do keep our ducklings and mama in a pen at night to keep them safe from predators.

We supplement our ducklings with a chick starter After a few weeks, the ducklings can be switched to a chicken grower feed, although ours will have access to all the tender grass and weeds they want. At about 4 months they'll be ready to harvest, especially if we supplement with a grower feed.

Muscovies have less fat than Mallard-type ducks. The breast on a Muscovy is large and almost fat-free. We think it tastes very much like beef. In fact, cooked properly and served with a little horseradish sauce, it is reminiscent of prime rib. The darker meat of the Muscovy tastes more like chicken. (Doesn't everything taste more or less like chicken?)

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

May in the Garden

  • Harvest spring crops daily to keep them producing for as long as possible.
  • Plant heat-tolerant tomatoes. 'Sweet 100' is a good choice.
  • Plant eggplant, peppers, cucumbers, squash, okra, beans, sweet potatoes, melons, and southern peas this month.
  • Give new plantings plenty of water.
  • Continue planting daisies, asters, coreopsis, marigolds, and sunflowers—they nourish the beneficial insects, which will help keep pests in check.
  • Check your drip irrigation system—you'll need it soon.
As the weather warms:
  • Plant last runs of lettuce, choosing heat-tolerant varieties that are slow to go to seed.
  • Start new plantings of melons, squash, dried beans, okra, and southern peas that thrive in heat.
  • Use drip irrigation to provide a constant supply of moisture to beds
  • Mulch with organic materials: dried grass clippings, pine needles, or leaves.