Saturday, May 25, 2013

When is Sweet Corn Ready to Pick?

How do you tell when your sweet corn is ready to harvest?  When will it have the best flavor and texture? It doesn't matter what variety of sweet corn it is, whether yellow, white, or bi-color, the test for ripeness is the same.

First, the ear of corn will fill out on the stalk. Once the ears begin to fill out, the silk at the top of the ear will begin to dry and turn brown. When you see this browning begin, peel back the husk to see if there are plump kernels inside. Press open a plump kernel with your thumbnail. If the fluid is clear, it is not time to harvest this ear. Put the husk back in place and secure it in place with twine or a rubber band if necessary. If the fluid is milky, it is time to pick. If the liquid is white and thick, the ear is over ripe.

Before you pick any ears, however, go put a pot of water on the stove and while it's coming to a boil go out and harvest your ears of corn, shuck them, and cut off the stems and any bad tips. Bring them into the kitchen, rinse them if you need to, and put them in the pot as soon as it comes to a boil. Just when the water comes back to a boil, pull out those sweet ears and enjoy the best corn you'll ever taste!


My grandfather used to say that you wait a few days after the silks turn brown to start checking for ripeness. Don't wait more that three or four days, though, because you want the corn in the pot at peak ripeness. That is, before the too much of the sugar in the kernels turns to starch.(milky vs. white liquid).



It helps also to know the variety of corn, the date you planted it and the days to harvest from that planting, so you know when to start watching the corn more closely for signs of ripeness.

If you plant an open pollinated variety, and you happen to let an early, nice looking ear of corn go past ripeness, let it continue to ripen and then dry on the stalk until about a month after your your corn harvest is done. After the husks turn brown, remove them from the plant and put them in a cool dry place, out of direct sun light. Once they are completely dry you can store them in a cool dry place until next year for seed.

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

New to Real Food?

10 Tips for Real Food Newbies

 If you’re just starting out, just learning and baby-stepping away from packaged and boxed foods into a diet based on wholesome, natural traditional foods, those first few weeks (months? years?) can feel daunting at best, and completely impossible at worst. It’s hard, especially if you were raised on Lean Cuisine, Pop Tarts and Crystal Light. Never mind the conflicting information in the media. . .
Read more at
NourishedKitchen .com


Making Your Own Cultured & Fermented Foods

Save Money Making Your Own Cultured & Fermented Foods

Times are tough and we are all looking for ways to shrink our grocery budget while still providing our family with delicious real food. It is possible to feed your family nutrient dense cultured foods on a budget! The secret is to make your own.

Making your own cultured and fermented foods at home is easy, quick, and can save you 30% to 97% over the grocery store.   More at Cultures for Health

Sunday, May 5, 2013

Muscovies

One of our Muscovy ducks recently hatched a brood of eleven ducklings!

Muscovies are excellent livestock for backyard homesteading, mini-farming purposes.

While they are often referred to as a duck, they aren’t related to the Mallard like the other domestic duck breeds. They have some characteristics of ducks, but are also similar to geese. They don't take to deep water like ducks, though they enjoy having plenty of water to wash in. Like other waterfowl they need water deep enough to submerge their nostrils and eyes to keep them clean. Like ducks, they like to mix their food with water--what a mess in the brooder pens. Muscovies are South American birds that like to roost in trees at night, and have fairly sharp claws that enable them to do so. They're not strong flyers, but they have no trouble clearing our five- and six-foot fences, if we don't remove the flight feathers from one wing.

One thing is for certain, Muscovies are much quieter than either our ducks or our geese. In fact they make no sound except for a rare, short "peep" and a warning "hiss." This is a good animal to have in a close neighborhood. Muscovy drakes weigh up to about 15 pounds and ducks weigh about half of that. They come in a variety of colors, and in our experience color of the offspring is not dependent on the color of the parents.

Muscovies are grazers like geese and a large part of their diet at our place comes from good forage--weeds in the margins of the yard and in the lawn, and the lawn itself. We haven't mowed our back lawn since March of last year, just before our water fowl arrived. They keep it mowed. Their droppings dissolve right into the lawn with a good rain, a decent run of the sprinklers, or a blast from the hose. Lawn mowed, fertilized and watered--just like that. Like ducks, they’ll happily clean up food wasted by other animals and they love live worms, slugs, earwigs, flies and mosquitoes. Our little ducklings have been hunting flies since the day they hatched.

Our Muscovies and other water birds take cover at night under our dwarf citrus trees (the branches hang fairly close to the ground). Other simple housing (a portable pen, a shed) offers protection from predators.

Muscovies are said to set clutches of between 8 and 20 eggs, three or four times per year. Ours are on track for those numbers. We have a drake and two ducks. One duck has started a clutch of eggs, but none hatched (35 days is the incubation period). We have an incubator we have used for chickens and our Campbell ducks and are planning to use it for our geese (although right now our goose, Buttercup, is sitting on a clutch of about 20).  If a hen, duck, or goose hatches its own brood, she'll provide warmth for the hatchlings. We don't have to provide a brooder. The offspring are more likely to hatch and brood their own if they had been brooded by their mother. So we resist using the incubator unless it becomes obvious after a few tries that the mama will not sit on her eggs long enough for them to hatch.

Anecdotal evidence indicates that Muscovies are usually better mothers than other ducks and that it’s best to keep the drakes separate from the ducklings. They may sometimes unintentionally trample ducklings. Our drake, Socks, however is a great dad. He will stand watch as mama duck and the ducklings eat. When they have eaten, he will take his turn. We do keep our ducklings and mama in a pen at night to keep them safe from predators.

We supplement our ducklings with a chick starter After a few weeks, the ducklings can be switched to a chicken grower feed, although ours will have access to all the tender grass and weeds they want. At about 4 months they'll be ready to harvest, especially if we supplement with a grower feed.

Muscovies have less fat than Mallard-type ducks. The breast on a Muscovy is large and almost fat-free. We think it tastes very much like beef. In fact, cooked properly and served with a little horseradish sauce, it is reminiscent of prime rib. The darker meat of the Muscovy tastes more like chicken. (Doesn't everything taste more or less like chicken?)

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

May in the Garden

  • Harvest spring crops daily to keep them producing for as long as possible.
  • Plant heat-tolerant tomatoes. 'Sweet 100' is a good choice.
  • Plant eggplant, peppers, cucumbers, squash, okra, beans, sweet potatoes, melons, and southern peas this month.
  • Give new plantings plenty of water.
  • Continue planting daisies, asters, coreopsis, marigolds, and sunflowers—they nourish the beneficial insects, which will help keep pests in check.
  • Check your drip irrigation system—you'll need it soon.
As the weather warms:
  • Plant last runs of lettuce, choosing heat-tolerant varieties that are slow to go to seed.
  • Start new plantings of melons, squash, dried beans, okra, and southern peas that thrive in heat.
  • Use drip irrigation to provide a constant supply of moisture to beds
  • Mulch with organic materials: dried grass clippings, pine needles, or leaves.

Thursday, April 11, 2013

Spicy Pickled (Fermented) Carrots

Denise just recently made some "Pickled Spicy Carrots." These yummy, crunchy, tangy, and hot (from jalapeno peppers) treats are not made with vinegar. They are fermented (similar in process to making sauerkraut or kosher pickles), therefore they have the same probiotics (beneficial bacteria) as sauerkraut and yogurt, and maybe some extras.

We grew the onions and peppers in these jars, but we purchased the carrots. Time involved: the time it takes to cut up the veggies; put them in jars; add water, salt, optional herbs and spices, and if you have it, whey.  Two or three days days on the counter, two weeks in the fridge and these will be ready to enjoy.


The Recipe

 The veggies in this recipe should be organic. The goal is to grow the lacto-bacteria to ferment (pickle) the carrots, etc. These friendly bacteria are ever-present in and on the veggies. Pecticides and chemical fertilizers kill them, as does chlorinated water--so use filtered, unchlorinated water.
  • 3 cups of peeled and sliced carrots (slice on the diagonal to increase surface area)
  • half of a medium onion peeled, quartered and sliced
  • 1 fresh jalapeno pepper (whole, pierced with a fork; halved length-wise; or sliced--if you slice, only include the seeds of you want it really hot. Wear gloves)
  • fresh cilantro (to taste)
  • garlic cloves (to taste) whole, crushed, or sliced
  • 1 tablespoon of sea salt
  • 4 tablespoons of whey (see below how to make whey; if not available use an additional tablespoon of salt)
  • 1/2 cup of filtered water
Mix the vegetables and pack them into a wide-mouthed quart mason jar. Mix water with salt and whey and pour over the vegetables adding more water if necessary to cover the carrot mixture. The top of the vegetables should be at least one inch below the top of the jar. Cover tightly and keep at room temperature for about 3 days before transferring to the fridge.

 

Making Whey

Use homemade yogurt or quality commercial yogurt--be sure the label says "live" or "active" cultures, or "cultured in the cup." Line a large strainer with a dish towel and set it over a bowl. Pour in a quart or more of yogurt and let stand at room temperature for several hours. The whey will run out of the yogurt into the bowl. What you have left in the strainer is thicker yogurt (Greek Style). If you tie up the towel (careful, don't squeeze the yogurt!) and suspend it over a container and let it continue to drip, soon you'll have something close to sour cream (we use it just like sour cream), if you let the bag drip until it stops dripping, you'll have cream cheese. In the fridge, the cheese will keep for a month and the whey will keep for six months. We always eat it up long before that.

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

April in the Garden

  • Give flowers and vegetables a foliar feeding of liquid seaweed or compost tea; spray the liquid nutrients on foliage early in the day before it gets too hot.
  • Plant black-eyed, purple hull and crowder peas, okra, peanuts, sweet potatoes, squash, melons, cucumbers, and corn—all can withstand the heat that will arrive in less than 2 months.
  • Keep planting basil—it loves the warm weather.
  • Keep adding kitchen scraps and grass clippings to your compost pile.
  • Replenish your mulch!
  • If slugs and snails are decimating your plants, collect them in the evening, when you're most likely to spot them.
  • Plant pumpkins, summer squash, melons, and other vegetables that thrive in heat.
  • Every 2 weeks from now until late summer, plant small blocks of bush beans and sweet corn to extend the harvest until frost.
  • Thin fruits on fruit trees to increase their size and keep branches from breaking.
  • Sow seeds of nasturtiums, marigolds, portulaca, amaranthus, salvias, vinca (Catharanthus roseus), sunflowers, and zinnias.
  • Attract beneficial insects to your garden: provide them with their chosen  foods and habitats. Umbelliferae family members such as anise, carrot, caraway, coriander, dill, fennel and parsley, with many tiny flowers arranged in tight umbels, and those in the Asteraceae (Compositae) family, such as black-eyed Susan, goldenrod, and strawflower, with a central disc flowers surrounded by many ray petals, attract many beneficials. Mustard flowers attract lacewings that control aphids and parasitic wasps that keep down cabbage caterpillars and coddling moths.