Saturday, January 4, 2014

Goals for Our Mini-Farm in 2014

Here are some general goals for our self-sufficiency effort this year:

  • achieve a more plentiful harvest from our garden and animals
  • dehydrate and can more this year
  • increase amount of fodder we grow
  • add more garden area to the property
  • add more rain catchment -- catch every drop of roof runoff
  • acquire or construct solar panels
Like many New Year's resolutions, these as stated are too broad or vague to be effective goals. The details and action steps need to be developed, fine tuned, and then implemented. As we focus on each of the above, we'll be publishing our plans, efforts and the effects.

As always, we post not to brag but to encourage others. If we can do it, so can you. Please feel free to learn from our failures as well as our successes. We wish you the best in the year ahead and always.

Friday, January 3, 2014

Improve Your Soil with Compost

In our Southern California garden there are always things growing and things to do, even in the middle of winter. We have greens, cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli, getting ready to harvest as well as oranges, tangerines, limes, and avocados.

It is time to plant bare-root roses, fruit trees, and berries, and to prune our existing fruit trees and berry vines.  In the next month or so, we'll be starting seeds indoors for plants to set out after the danger of frost has passed (usually around the first of April).

One thing we like to do in January is to look through the seed catalogs (they start to arrive around the first of January) and garden books for ideas. Another is to add to or begin compost piles. Compost adds nutrients and organic matter to the soil. It will improve any soil over time, even if you add no other amendments. For us December, January,  and February are great months to make compost because of the availability of leaves. We have them, our neighbors have them. We get them from our neighbors for the asking (and the raking).

There are a number of different ways to make compost for the garden. Some are labor intensive, others not so much. We prefer the less labor intensive sort when we can get away with it. However, the less attention and work you give your compost, the longer it will take to be ready for your garden.

The easiest way to make compost is to make a pile and let it sit for months until it is finished and/or you are ready to use it. Pick a spot in an out of the way corner of your garden to make your pile, keeping in mind that you will be hauling stuff to and from the pile. (If your garden is in the near part of your yard, you don't want to build your compost pile in the far part of your yard. Unless of course, you enjoy using the wheelbarrow or carrying a bucket.)  After you've chosen a convenient spot, scratch up or turn over the soil that will be under the pile. Then, add your yard and kitchen wastes to the pile, mixing them together as you go. You could build a bin out of wire or hardware cloth, or other materials, but this is not absolutely necessary with this method.

Add kitchen scraps (but no meat or fats) and yard trimmings to the top of the pile over time. You may need to sprinkle a little water on the pile once in a while to keep it moist but not soggy.

When you are ready to plant your garden, remove the top layers of unfinished compost, setting them aside for starting a new pile. The finished compost will be at the bottom of the pile. Collect the rich, brown, earthy-smelling, finished compost into your bucket or wheelbarrow, put the unfinished stuff in its place and head for the garden with your finished product.

You can dig the compost into the soil as you plant or you can use the compost as a mulch, or both.

There are other ways to make compost that require more effort, but produce a finished product in as little as two weeks. Duane and Karen Newcomb's book, The Postage Stamp Garden Book: Grow Tons of Vegetables in Small Spaces has an appendix devoted to various methods of making compost.

We don't have much kitchen waste that makes it to the compost pile because most of it goes to the ducks, geese, and chickens (oh, and the rabbit, too). We do use bedding from the goat pen and yard trimmings. You can read here about Our Composting System that goes on right in the garden beds.

One of the best books we've found to help us understand the soil is Teaming with Microbes: The Organic Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web, Revised Edition, by Lowenfels and Lewis.

Thursday, January 2, 2014

Creating a New Normal



Joel Salatin And Liz Reitzig
Joel Salatin and Liz Reitzig
“On some positions, Cowardice asks the question, “Is it safe?” Expediency asks the question, “Is it politic?” And Vanity asks the question, “Is it popular?” But Conscience asks the question “Is it right?” And there comes a time when one must take a position that is neither safe, nor politic, nor popular, but one must do it because it is right.”

Dr. Martin Luther King Jr, March 31, 1968, less than a week before he was assassinated.

Dr. King spoke these words in protestation of war, but they are equally applicable to any moral dilemma. Dr. King strove to bring peace to people torn by abuse. Today our family farmers face a similar pattern of arbitrary and unnecessary assault. Read more on nourishingliberty.com

January Garden Tasks

January is time to plant garlic, onion, and shallot bulbs.

It's time also to prune roses. By the way, if you have plants that have been damaged by frost (like our kiwi vines), do not prune off the damaged parts. They may be ugly, but they'll help protect the rest of the plant from further frost damage.

Rake your lawn and/or your neighbors' lawns for leaves for your compost pile.

Once all the leaves have fallen from your fruit trees, you can prune them. While you are pruning your deciduous trees you can also trim your conifers.

Purchase and plant bare-root roses, fruit trees, vines, and veggies. Camellias and  Azaleas, too. 

Spray your roses and deciduous trees with a dormant spray.

Order seeds and supplies from seed catalogs (more on that in the next post).

Thursday, November 28, 2013

Making Turkey Stock

Once you remove all the meat from your Thanksgiving turkey (this is easier when while the turkey is still warm), put the bones on to simmer right away to make stock to use in soups and sauces for the rest of the holidays and after. It may help keep you and your family from getting the winter colds and flu that always come around.

Homemade stock offers three nutritional benefits that are in readily digestible form:

1. Minerals calcium, magnesium, silicon, sulphur and phosporous and critical trace minerals.

2. Gelatin which is good for many tissues of the body -- cartilage, bones, joints, skin, digestive tract, and muscles including the heart. Gelatin also boosts immunity. The majority of our immune system is located in our gut, and gelatin soothes and heals the intestinal mucosa.

3. Glucosamine and chondroitin sulphates, good for joint maintenance.

Making turkey stock is very easy. Put the carcass in a large pot (1-2 gallons) and cover with water. Add 1/4 cup of vinegar (this will help to release minerals from the bones and cartilage). Bring to a boil over medium to high heat. Reduce to medium to low heat and simmer for 24-48 hours. Skim off any foam that forms on the surface while simmering. After 24-48 hours, allow the stock to cool and strain out the bones. You'll have a gallon or two of yummy stock.

Easy, healthful, and tasty.

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Time to Plant Garlic, Onions, and ... Strawberries


In our Southern California garden, this week (the first week in November) is the time to plant garlic, onions, and strawberries for best results in the spring and summer. (See what else to plant in November.)

These three garden favorites may not seem to go together, but when it comes to planting time, they are a perfect match. We're not talking about companion planting--the idea that some plants do better when planted near certain other plants (Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening by Louise Riotte is the book to read if you want to know all about it.). We're talking about timing.

Research and testing at the University of California Agricultural Extension show that "strawberries planted between November 1 and 10 get winter chill at the precise moment in their growing schedule to trigger fruit production rather than foliage" (Pat Welsh's Southern California Gardening: A Month-by-Month Guide, pg. 285).

It doesn't pay to order strawberries from catalogs. Strawberries are a regional crop. Just a few miles north of here, different varieties of strawberries flourish that would languish here and vice versa. Plant runners from your own strawberry patch or purchase plants (bare root if possible) that are adapted to your area.  We're planting "Sequoia" this week. The varieties available in local nurseries will be successful in your area.

This is the perfect time to plant onion seeds because onions are sensitive to day length and to temperature--in a word, they are photothermoperiodic. (Your sesquipedalian for today. Unless of course you are hippopotomonstrosesquipedaliophobic!)

Each variety of onion is stimulated to begin bulb growth and slow top growth when the hours of daylight reach a certain length--a number which varies greatly, depending on the variety. Long-day onions do well in northern latitudes, while short-day onions, do well in the south. According to long-time onion grower Dixondale Farms "The short-day varieties start the bulbing process when daylight length reaches 10-12 hours. They take approximately 110 days to mature in the south and just 75 days in the north. The earlier you plant them, the larger they get, but they won't get very big in the northern states."

We're planting "Yellow Granex" onion seeds this week. Other short-day varieties that do well here in Southern California: "Grano," "Crystal Wax," "Red Creole," and any of the "Texas" varieties. (Check out Burpee's Short-Day Onion Collection icon.) There are also intermediate day-length onions that if planted here in February will make bulbs in the summer. (Try "San Felipe.")

We're planting lettuce, too!
We're also planting garlic now. Plant individual cloves about 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep with the points upward in soil rich with humus. You can purchase globes of garlic at the nursery or in the produce section of the supermarket.




November in the Garden

Plant garlic, shallots, cabbages, kale, onions, peas, fava beans, broccoli, carrots, turnips, beets, spinach and other cool-weather greens.

Plant strawberries!

Make successive plantings of fast growing greens: cilantro, lettuce, and chervil.

Pull up tomato plants, roots and all, leave the green fruit. Hang whole vines in a protected place and pick fruits as they ripen.   

Harvest Brussels sprouts, cabbage, broccoli, carrots, turnips, collards, and kale after frost sweetens their flavor.

Watch out for frost! Cover crops with floating row covers to protect them if the weatherman says the overnight lows will be in the low 40's or colder. If a freeze is predicted soak the ground before you put the covers on.